verandah 25 December 2009
Well, how odd is my Christmas? I got up at 9 and did my homework, went to 2 hours of Russian class (with the lovely Tatiana who really did despair of my not grasping the third group of verbs and their roots and conjugation – or ‘conjuring’ as I am so glad she called it cos there is an element, far as I am concerned, of wanting MAGIC to happen that you might remember sounds, verbs, words ANYTHING in this language! A fine lunch in Verandah (duck – you’ll not find turkey here, I don’t think) and now we are checking out some bars mentioned on a Russian site citing (see? SEE what I did there???) bars and restaurants to visit in Odessa and much more updated than any of the ones in English.
So, to report on another we found last night – an ‘Art Cafe’ that had lots of recently published books, including a version of Flann O’Brien’s THE THIRD POLICEMAN, in a handsome edition, and a Gunther Grass whom I haven’t read in any other language BUT here’s the kicker – I read the 2 first lines in Russian and recognised tenses, cases, words and nearly SO nearly got what was being said!! By the way, the hardbacks were selling at 12 grv which is JUST over a euro…value for money or what!
Have a great day to all those who celebrate it and to all others ‘have a good time…ALL the time’ (spinal tap)
thaw 24 December 2009
The snow has been thawing over the last few days in Odessa and the biggest feature of that was the noise. It sounded like rain lashing down except it was from roofs and gutters in the eaves and not from the sky. Strange and wonderful.
I hadn’t realised, when i wrote about it, what a good excuse being hungover was for not doing homework. It beats the dog ate it into a cocked hat. As it happens I am again attempting it with a bit of a head on me – myself and Himself have been a tiny bit of a disgrace for 2 days running and it’ll have to stop. There are dark mutterings of a long walk after school today.
Which brings me to another strange thing – I believe it’s Christmas Eve for many of you out there. I have to keep reminding myself of it. Celebrations here will be in the New Year as Christmas doesn’t feature heavily. So, after doing my home work, I’ll take my penultimate 2 hour Russian lesson, probably do the threatened walk out the coast, have lunch and hopefully do a bit of novel writing. I sort of yearn for a glass of champagne by the fire at home or out with friends but it ain’t gonna happen. And without the G cat to grace my lap it might not be all I imagined anyhow.
Have a great one y’all and I’ll be in touch tomorrow (when I will be getting ready to take my final Russian lesson – on a Christmas Day!!! who’d‘a thunk it??)
wine 23 December 2009
There was a mass suicide attempt here in Odessa yesterday as myself and Richard tried to kill ourselves through the medium of French red wine and a pit stop at EXIT, for a pint of local beer. We were largely unsuccessful but are mere shadows of our former magnificence today.
The thaw is on outside and the snow will be gone by this afternoon I’d say. it’s a balmy 4 degrees now.
I cannot believe tomorrow is Christmas Eve. Celebrations here will be in the New Year and Christmas doesn’t really feature so it’s a bit strange. I will even have a Russian lesson on the day itself! I feel odd to be away as I am mindful of each year passing and the sadness that there is always someone missing after another 12 months. And it took till yesterday for me to settle into this break at all, but settle I have and hopefully I won’t drink as much good cheer by way of celebration today…though a cure might be in order later after ‘school’. Speaking of which I was also too drunk to do my homework so best get stuck into that now (bah humbug)
handsome 21 December 2009
Well, now. Richard often abandons me in the apartment of an afternoon so that I can write without distraction – that’s the excuse but he also, I am certain, just likes to GET AWAY awhile on his own, and no surprise…anyhow, today he went to his favourite spot, Klara Bara, and a pile of filmy students came including a few hotties (both male and female, I am assuming). After a while the waitress came over to him with a serviette on which was writ the legend ‘Hi, I am Vika. I want meet with you. You very handsome man. Call me’ and then a range of numbers. He was delighted (who wouldn’t be?) Eventually he asked the waitress who’d sent it and she pointed to a woman he said was a ’50 year old battle axe’ sitting with a man in the corner. I had to point out that I am about to have more than a nodding acquaintance with 50 in the next few years…
swing 20 December 2009
The best bar in all the world is probably in Odessa – it’s called EXIT and is so cool you have to be told what door you’re looking for to get in. Now, normally that would put me right off but the secret of EXIT is that it’s not at all exclusive, it just couldn’t kinda be bothered. It’s a BIT studenty, yes, but also just wonderful – hip, cheap drink and atmosphere you could bite, chew and ruminate over. And they had some music on the system that even the staff can’t name BUT one that was, of all things, a swing version of CARELESS WHISPER (not sung by G Michael but he might like a listen to it).
rain has come and i fear a freeze now and, with it, icy-ness – i don’t do the ‘imightbreakabonecosiamelderlynow’ so i’ll be staying in if it persists…
and for jonathan white , this…
there is another version of THE TAKING OF CHRIST by Caravaggio and it has been in Odessa for yonks and it is well nigh identical to the Irish one BUT was stolen last August (2008) from a museum here in Odessa – I have an alibi and, may I point out that, the version I have on my wall, although furnished in part through Monica Moody (Broadcaster Extraordinaire) is, as I understand it, a purchasable printed version of the National Gallery of Ireland version of the great work. I am NOT in receipt of the stolen work at all, at all…nor am I the one who stole it…at all, at all…it is, though, very very beautiful…
business 19 December 2009
There is a feature of this time of year, and the weather it has thrown up, here in Odessa. One of the seedier sides of the city, generally, is that it’s a hot bed (no pun intended) of arranged marriages – western men come here and snag a fabulous bride and she gets to go West and all is, well, whatever it is. On the free tourist maps you’ll see signs for LOVE LAB and so on. But the lads are not much in evidence right now. So, P got to wondering if the recession has hit even the lurv business? Assume so… whatever about the snow (snyek, in Russian for those of you wondering…)
Got recommended a Ukrainian wine in the supermarket tonight and, for 3 euro, I have to say it’s not bad at all…bet the hangover will be some doozie though….
concert 18 December 2009
Tried to go to a concert last night but twas cancelled – SNOW! I must also tell you that there are cars abandoned in the middle of the road here too and also on bridges (surely more of a problem?) so it’s a major factor of life here in Odessa right now. When you step out of the apartment you are into your kneecaps – I kid you not. Met an Englishman, also looking to attend the recital last night, and he’s been here 3 months and will finish out a year and he did say when i told him i was and am TRYING to learn Russian that it is ‘an unforgiving language’ – i agree. between snow, a cranky and particular language and Russian, things are INTERYESNAH…do you see? do you see what i did there???
snek 17 December 2009
The snow continues to fall in Odessa. Very beautiful and, as it happens, unexpected for the natives. Apparently there hasn’t been anything lie it in 8 or so years. And everything kinda grinds to a halt, which reminds me of home. I hear the price of shovels has gone stratospheric. When Richard lived a bachelor existence in Kilkenny in Ireland (long before i strolled onto the scene) he used to live of a meal-for-one from the local greasy spoon takeaway (fine stuff, I tasted it when I arrived and many times afterwards). There was a price hike at some stage that floored the Hubby and when he asked about it he was told ‘Richard, the price of cooking oil has gone to high sky’ – think Odessa and spades right now…
blizzard 16 December 2009
It has been snowing steadily in Odessa (ukraine) for 2 days now and i step out into 2ft of snow whenever i venture forth – i hear it’s the same in my home street in soho london so hey let’s hear it for global warming (?) being equal opportunities… good thing is it’s dry stuff here and tremendous – chocolate box, really, and even more beautiful to look at, now that the fierce wind has abated – it was a tad too much of a challenge. i did buy a better pair of boots, fear not, and the trainers are for indoors use now. it’s extraordinary and even the odessans are surprised by it. it’ll be a challenge getting to the language school tomorrow for my first lesson – Himself is insisting i do same, even though i would prefer the time to write – a tense time of collision here on this subject but we skirt around it as best we can…i know i will enjoy learning something about the language but i resent the precious time…flash point and we all know it…still, onward and upward (i shall ask how to say that pa russki…)
gutties 15 December 2009
It’s snowing heavily here in Odessa now and it has been lightly dusting a snowy place with snow all day. It’s all veh veh pretty BUT although The McLynn has travelled here swathed in warm and bulky clothes she only wore trainers on her feet – I feel the purchase of a pair of woolly boots coming on…
And the things you learn – had an excellent steak in Steak House tonight and the lad serving told us that most of the beef got sold out of the country till a decade or so ago and until then it was pig all the way and of course you’d never eat that less than cooked through or ‘well done’ and so it has taken till now to convince the populace that ot-eating thing) and still ‘medium rare’ is about the height of what might ever be asked for.
Slept 12 and more hours last night and woke up looking like a more wrecked person than a very VERY wrecked and wretched person might – eeek! Great sleep, though, just great…